See Prices & Ordering if interested in purchasing.

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TriStander legs and mounts, by Dusty Strings, can be an efficient way to hold up a hammered dulcimer. The legs can be adjusted to either a sitting or standing height, and the playing angle of the instrument can be changed as well. The legs can be stowed in a case pocket, making the instrument and stand into one piece of luggage. A TriStander weighs about 3 lbs.

I make a simple sitting stand, and a version that can be taken apart for travel. They are more wobbly than some heavier stands out there, but they are lighter.

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Custom cases in all sizes with a variety of options are available from:

Coon Hollow Canvas
P.O. Box 8
Kila, MT 59920   
(406) 752-4766

Allow 4-8 weeks delivery.

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hammersHammers are a continual source of vexation and hope to many players. The possibility that the ideal set will somehow magically elevate technique has led many to acquire huge arsenals of different hammers. Alas, I make just two styles.  

Single-Sided Hammers have a long-enough grip to allow for two-finger flicking, a weight and length good for the instruments I make, and they are what I myself use to play. I can supply them with calfskin (recommended) or bare wood. Woods will vary, but I use laminate construction on the shanks for durability.  

Double-Sided Hammers  A nifty flexible-but-durable carbon-fiber shank and a light double-sided walnut head with a lively but controlled action. Designed by Sam Rizzetta. If you like Paul Van Arsdale's, these are as close as you can get.

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Tuning Hammers* (Wrenches)

wrenchesTuning hammers are so named from the old days when tuning pins tended to gradually work their way out of the pinblocks, and thus not only had to be turned but  pounded back into place. There are two kinds: goosenecks and T-hammers. A gooseneck is  easier on the wrist and a trifle more accurate for tuning, but is awkward to use when winding on a replacement string. I supply a T-hammer with each instrument, and if only one tool is carried, it should be a T-hammer. Those wanting to upgrade to a gooseneck can do so at a small increase in cost. 

*Note that they are called "wrenches" on the price list to avoid confusion with other hammers.

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Spare Strings are most commonly needed for copper-alloy courses. Copper-alloy strings will often fatigue and break within a couple of years, and some of these are supplied with the instrument. Smaller size wound strings will lose brightness in a year of playing, or a few months by the seashore. Large diameter wound strings last much longer, which is fortunate; as some of these have to be custom made and are rather expensive. Even tinned piano wire steel strings will eventually begin to corrode and rust, and typically after seven years or so the instrument will be greatly improved by replacing them; but they don't often break. Pure Sound steel strings are stainless, and don't rust, and if they aren't accidentally broken perhaps they might last forever. Unfortunately, their use is limited.

Restringing is recommended for instruments when strings become corroded and rusty, usually after about 7-12 years, and improves the tone. The video on the right shows you how to change a string. It usually costs about $150 to have me replace all of the strings, depending on what else has to be done (tuning pins replaced, refinishing sound board…).

*To save me from being burdened with thousands of small envelopes and countless trips to the post office, there is a $10 minimum on string orders.  I recommend buying strings in pairs, and replacing whole stringcourses.